Let's get right into it. The bad (design): The leg design isn't as good for rebound as a flat-bottomed anvil design, the Pritchel hole is halfway to useless and hugely oversized, and the diameter of the Hardy hole varies based on the anvil weight, up to frankly silly 1.25 inch holes on the largest anvils. The good news on that front is that the 88 pounder has a perfect 1 inch Hardy hole, so making tools for it is as simple as buying 1 inch square bar. On mine, it fits perfectly. The path beneath the Hardy means you could run one all the way past the legs, if you felt so inclined, so that part of the design is 10/10. The anvil lacks a usable step, which would be a nice feature. What step it has leads straight onto the silly Pritchel hole, rending it useless. The round horn isn't surface hardened; it's tool steel, but not hardened tool steel. The good (design): The biggest advantage to this overall design is that having a round horn and a square horn means that there isn't much you can't do. In terms of sheer practicality, it ticks all the boxes. The face is hardened all the way through the square horn, making it fit for heavy use. The face is perfectly flat, level, and polished; they clearly put in the work, there. The face is large and practical, offering plenty of real estate. The edges of the face- horn and body alike- have crisp edges and clean lines. The bad (everything else): The anvil has a few major issues. Under the paint, there were many voids and casting errors, which had been filled in with Bondo putty before paint. The most egregious example on mine was under the round horn, where there was a void about two inches wide and almost an inch deep. If the anvil had shipped unpainted and uncorrected, it would have made my life a whole lot easier. Instead, I had to grind out all the putty from those voids and fill them in with my welder, then grind them smooth. The paint was extremely tough- I learned later from YouTube that I could have just soaked the anvil i
Mark K. Unger 
